|
|
|
|
|
|
This selection contains common problems DIY'ers come across when sanding, sealing and maintaining a polished floor.
|
|
|
APPLYING TIMBER FLOOR FINISH QUESTIONS
|
Q. Why is the first coat taking too long to dry? ( new floor )
Q. Why is the coating rejecting or pulling from the floor?
Q. How long will it take for the solvent smell to disappear?
Q. How long do I wait if I want to apply a protective coat of polish?
Q. How long will the coating last before I need to re-coat again?
Q. How best do I maintain a polished timber floor?
Q. Can I touch up any scratches on the floor finish?
Q. There seems to be sediment at the bottom of the can. What is it? Is the product okay?
Q. Why does my last coat seem to be dull or have a bloom in it?
Q. Can I use a water-based finish over an oil-based stain and vice versa?
Q. Do I have to sand between coats?
Q. Can I thin the finish?
Q. What causes the finish to dry milky?
Q. Will my coating yellow over a period of time?
Q. The buffer has left swirl marks on my floor. How can I avoid this?
Q. What is the best brush to apply finish with?
Q. What causes bubbles and brush strokes in my finish?
Q. Which type of product is better for my project, oil-based or water-based?
Q. The stain I just applied is uneven and blotchy. How do I fix this?
|
|
|
APPLYING TIMBER FLOOR POLISH QUESTIONS
|
Q. The polish has dried milky white in either patches or streaks over the floor?
Q. The polish has dried flaky or powdery white in some areas or all over the floor?
Q. The polish has dried with air bubbles?
|
|
|
|
|
APPLYING TIMBER FLOOR FINISH QUESTIONS AND ANSWERS
|
Q. Why is the first coat taking too long to dry? ( new floor )
A. There are several reasons that the penetrating coat could take longer than normal to dry.
When you apply too much finish, it can extend the time it takes to dry. For example, if the amount of finish you apply is 2 to 3 times thicker/heavier than recommended, the drying time becomes 2 to 3 times longer. Multiple thin coats will perform better than one heavy coat. Be sure to follow recommended application rates.
Weather conditions ie. Slow drying times can occur if the room temperature is less than 10 degrees and there is inadequate air flow. Coatings should not be applied to a floor if the temperature is less than ten degrees or if it is a very wet day. If the finish is not drying, air flow will aid in the drying time. This can be done by opening windows and doors. The presence of oil in the timber. Oily timber such as Brushbox etc can have an effect on the drying time. Again allow adequate air flow and more time for drying. Generally the oilier the timber the greater the drying time.
Drying times can also be effected on floors that have been previously coated with waxes and polishes. The surface when cut back should be totally free of any such contaminates prior to coating. If suspect apply coating in a small inconspicuous area. Generally if coating dries within two hours the surface should be ok for coating.
|
| Back to Questions |
|
Q. Why is the coating rejecting or pulling from the floor?
A. Rejection or pulling of the coating in most cases will be present on the first coat. This needs to be addressed at this point as further coats can exacerbate the problem. Rejection in virtually all cases is due to some form of contamination on the timber eg. Oil, wax, polish, dirt etc. To reduce the chances of rejection ensure that the timber floor is free of such contaminates. Solvent washing can help to eliminate some contaminates. Always try in small inconspicuous area prior to coating the entire floor.
If rejection has occurred allow surface to dry. If rejection is severe the coat will need to be sanded back to timber, solvent washed ( depending on product used ) and re-coated. Again try in small inconspicuous area to ensure that no rejection is present. If rejection is still present an anti rejection additive might need to be added to the finish.
Rejection on the second and subsequent coats will generally only occur if some form of contamination is walked on the floor after the previous coat has dried or by the use of some aerosols or by using mixed systems of coatings.
|
| Back to Questions |
|
Q. How long will it take for the solvent smell to disappear?
A. The solvent smell that is present is just that, solvent evaporating from the finish allowing it to dry. Hence this is dependent on the amount of ventilation present. The greater the ventilation the quicker the smell will disappear from the atmosphere.
In general it takes approximately 72 hours for the coating to cure thus not producing further solvent smell.
|
| Back to Questions |
|
Q. How long do I wait if I want to apply a protective coat of polish?
A. The floor needs to be completely dry and cured prior to any water based coating being applied. We would suggest to allow at least 7 days prior to applying Timber Care Floor Polish.
|
| Back to Questions |
|
Q. How long will the coating last before I need to re-coat again?
A. As there are so many variables present such as traffic, grit, pets, maintenance, kids, etc. it is virtually impossible to claim a time of longevity. However a surface that is maintained properly should give you anywhere between 2 - 5 years prior to re-coating.
|
| Back to Questions |
|
Q. How best do I maintain a polished timber floor?
A. The biggest killer of polished timber floors is dirt and grit being walked on the floor causing a sanding effect. This greatly increases the wear of the surface. Fist point of attack should be to have proper grit capturing mats at all entrances thus eliminating the amount of grit and dirt being carried on to the floor.
Wait until your floor has dried and "cured" before you use any cleaning products on it. This usually takes a week. The surface should be swept daily with an anti static mop to remove dust and grit from the surface. When mopping is required ensure that the surface is cleaned with Timber Care Floor Cleaner which is a proper neutral floor detergent as acid and alkali detergents can damage the coating. High speed buffing can also enhance the appearance of the floor.
If extra protection is required two or three coats of Timber Care Floor Polish can be applied by mop and bucket around 7 days after the coating has been applied. This acts as a sacrificial wear layer where the polish coating is damaged instead of the finish coating on the timber. The surface must be swept and washed thoroughly with a neutral detergent and allowed to dry prior to application of Timber Care Floor Polish. As time goes on extra coats of polish will need to be applied to high wear areas as required. Maintenance is as above.
|
| Back to Questions |
|
Q. Can I touch up any scratches on the floor finish?
A. If the floor does not have any polish on it and the scratches are not that deep high speed buffing can eliminate fine scratching.
If scratches are deep or the finish is damaged it might be necessary to lightly sand damaged areas with 100 - 150 grit sand paper and apply finish to affected area using a paint brush. High speed buffing can also help blend the new surface to the old. If Timber Care Floor Polish has been applied as a sacrificial wear layer and scratches are present scrub back old polish using Timber Care Floor Stripper and a blue doodle bug or blue pad under a slow speed scrubbing machine. Allow the floor to dry and apply two coats of Timber Care Floor Polish using a mop and bucket.
|
| Back to Questions |
|
Q. There seems to be sediment at the bottom of the can. What is it? Is the product okay?
A. The product is fine. The sediment you’ve noticed is "flatting agent" which is added to satin and matt finishes to achieve the right sheen. It’s normal for this agent to settle somewhat after the manufacturing process, but be sure to stir the product thoroughly to get the best appearance for you floor. Stir just before you apply the product and occasionally during the application.
|
| Back to Questions |
|
Q. Why does my last coat seem to be dull or have a bloom in it?
A. Generally the reason for this is because there has been solvent entrapment between the final two coats. This is due to the previous coat not having dried properly prior to the application of the finial coat. If the second coat has not properly dried due to poor ventilation or poor weather conditions in the allocated time, open doors and windows and allow air flow in order for the coating to dry prior to application of the finial coat.
If dullness or blooming has occurred, high speed burnishing can remove this if it is not too severe. If high speed buffing does not rectify the problem the floor can be coated with 2 or 3 coats of Timber Care Floor Polish 7 days later. If polish is not going to be used lightly sand back floor using a steel wool doughnut and apply another coat.
|
| Back to Questions |
|
Q. Can I use a water-based finish over an oil-based stain and vice versa?
A. You can do this, but we recommend the following.
It is very important to wait for the stain do dry thoroughly. Follow the manufacturer’s recommended "cure" time or wait at least 72 hours whichever is longer.
Test the finish in an inconspicuous area before you begin your full project. This lets you see whether the products are truly compatible and provide the appearance you want.
|
| Back to Questions |
|
Q. Do I have to sand between coats?
A. Timber Care Floor finishes only require a light sand back after the first coat has dried. We recommend using 150 -200 grit paper, screen or steel wool donut to do this.
There is no need to sand back between subsequent coats. Sand back only if re-coating time is greater than 48 hours or if the surface is still rough. If a sand back between these coats is needed do so lightly using either 180 - 250 grit paper, mesh screen or 00 - 000 steel wool donut. This will minimise circular sanding marks.
|
| Back to Questions |
|
Q. Can I thin the finish?
A. Under normal conditions, it is not necessary to thin Timber Care Floor Finishes.
On bare or new timber some people like to thin the first coat they apply, in order to enhance penetration into the timber. We recommend the use of Timber Care’s Ultrathane Primer for this purpose when using Ultrathane. Other products in the Timber Care Floor Finishing Range do not require thinning.
|
| Back to Questions |
|
Q. What causes the finish to dry milky?
A. There are three primary reasons that a finish develops a milky appearance:
Firstly it can occur if you’ve applied the finish in temperatures that are too cold.
Secondly it may be caused by moisture or solvent trapped under the finish. For this reason, be sure that the surface you’re finishing is thoroughly clean and dry. If you're using a stain, follow the recommended waiting period before you apply a top coating.
In either of these two cases, wait a few days to see if the milky quality clears up on its own. If not, sand off the finish, and reapply it when conditions are better.
Thirdly if you are using a semi-gloss or matt finish you may get a cloudy, milky appearance if your finish was not well stirred before and during use. That’s because a flatting agent is used to create the sheen, and it must be well incorporated in the finish, or the sheen may be uneven.
|
| Back to Questions |
|
Q. Will my coating yellow over a period of time?
A. The coating will not change colour over time, however products such as Ultrathane and Tung oil have an amber tone while Natrathane dries ultra clear. We recommend the use of Natrathane on very light timber species or on limed surfaces. If you want to achieve the amber tone that offers a more traditional look in floor finishes we recommend the use of Ultrathane or Tung Oil.
Keep in mind however that all timbers as a natural substance will change colour upon exposure to ultraviolet light regardless of the clear coating used to protect it.
|
| Back to Questions |
|
Q. The buffer has left swirl marks on my floor. How can I avoid this?
A. There are basically two ways to avoid this.
When buffing some residual abrasive grit breads away from the sandpaper and becomes lodged between the sandpaper and the floor. The best way to avoid this is to vacuum and sweep the area as you proceed with sanding, and change the sandpaper often.
Ensure when buffing to lightly use a high grit paper such as 180 - 250 grit. If the paper is too coarse it will cut too deeply into the coating creating swirl marks.
|
| Back to Questions |
|
Q. What is the best brush to apply finish with?
A. To apply Timber Care Floor Finishes the use of either a short nap mohair roller or lambswool applicator give you the best results. Use a natural bristle brush for applying finish around the edges of the room. Ensure you use high quality rollers, applicators and brushes as these will give you the best results as they are less likely to leave fluff and bristles behind in the wet finish.
|
| Back to Questions |
|
Q. What causes bubbles and brush strokes in my finish?
A. Bubbles and brush strokes are a product of the application process.
These are some of the main reasons they appear.
Most often, the coat of finish is too thin, or there’s air moving over your project while you’re applying the finish. Either way, the finish dries too quickly, so it doesn’t have time for the bubbles or brush marks to level out and become smooth. Over working the finish by brushing over the finish too many times can also trap air in the coating, which produces bubbles. It’s best to flow on a generous amount of finish and try not to over work it.
Brush, roller and applicator strokes can also be created when an earlier coat of finish hasn’t dried thoroughly before a new coat is added. In this case, you’ll feel your brush "drag" as you apply the finish, and the brush, roller and applicator marks don’t flow out and become level. To avoid this, always follow the label instructions for drying times. If you’re applying finish in cold or humid conditions, be sure to allow extra time for the finish to dry and harden before you start your next coat. You can test for " re-coat readiness" by sanding a small spot in an inconspicuous area. If the coating sands well, producing a powder, it’s ready to re-coat. If it gums and rolls, you need to wait longer.
Application technique may also create these marks. Care must be taken when applying finish so as to keep a "wet edge" and maintain an even consistent flow of the finish. Greater care must be taken when applying Semi-gloss or Matt finishes as these finishes tend to show up bad application techniques more readily than a Gloss finish.
|
| Back to Questions |
|
Q. Which type of product is better for my project, oil-based or water-based?
A. Both products offer protection and durability. Oil-based products are very popular for a more traditional look, because they enhance the beauty of the timber with a rich, amber quality. However they dry more slowly and require a longer waiting period before applying another coat.
Water-based finishes dry faster, have very little odour, and can be cleaned up easily with water. Although they look milky white when they’re liquid they dry quickly to a durable, non-yellowing coating. This clear finish also enhances the beauty of your timber.
|
| Back to Questions |
|
Q. The stain I just applied is uneven and blotchy. How do I fix this?
A. A newly stained surface can become blotchy for several reasons: Stain will not penetrate through old coating, wax, or stearates. But if you’ve carefully removed any contaminates, the blotchy look may be caused when :
Stain penetrates unevenly into the timber surface, such as can be seen when the timber can be porous in one area and more dense in another. For example Knots in timber are very dense where the surrounding timber is more porous, which can create inconsistency in the finish.
Or the stain may be drying too fast due to warm temperatures or a lack of humidity in the room.
However these conditions generally only affect water based stains. Timber Care Stains are oil based. Oil-based stains rarely blotch, except when applied to pine or other soft woods. If you’re working with those woods, always do a test in an inconspicuous area. You may want to consider using a pre-stain conditioner on soft timbers.
|
| Back to Questions |
|
|
|
|
APPLYING TIMBER FLOOR POLISH QUESTIONS AND ANSWERS
|
|
Q. The polish has dried milky white in either patches or streaks over the floor?
Reason 1: The polish was applied too thick causing it to cure improperly.
Solution 1: Remove polish using Timber Care Floor Stripper (following instructions on the label) and re-apply Timber Care Floor Polish (following instructions on the label) taking care to apply thin even coats.
Reason 2: The polish was applied too thinly or unevenly causing streaks marks or dull patches to appear.
Solution 2: Remove polish using Timber Care Floor Stripper (following instructions on the label) and re-apply Timber Care Floor Polish (following instructions on the label) taking care to apply thin coats in a figure 8 pattern making sure the whole floor is covered evenly.
Reason 3: The polish is rejecting due to contamination of the floor prior to applying polish for example wax, chemical residue, other foreign contaminants etc.
Solution 3: Thoroughly remove polish using Timber Care Floor Stripper (following instructions on the label) Mop the floor with Timber Care Floor Cleaner ( following instructions on the label) Allow to dry thoroughly.
Re-apply Timber Care Floor Polish ( following instructions on the label)
Important note: If the contaminant or wax cannot be completely removed using Timber Care Floor Stripper the rejection problem can occur again. If this happens the floor is unsuitable for Timber Care Floor Polish to be applied.
Reason 4: The room temperature was too cold during application.
Solution 4: Remove polish using Timber Care Floor Stripper (following instructions on the label)
Warm the room by turning on a heater, re-apply Timber Care Floor Polish (following instructions on the label) taking care to apply thin even coats.
Reason 5: The room may not be level causing the polish to run and pool in areas. This leaves some areas with too little polish (causing streaking) and other areas with too much polish ( causing improper curing of the polish)
Solution 5: Remove polish using Timber Care Floor Stripper (following instructions on the label)
The floor will require leveling before proceeding with any further attempts to apply Timber Care Floor Polish.
|
| Back to Questions |
|
Q. The polish has dried flaky or powdery white in some areas or all over the floor?
Reason 1: The polish is rejecting due to contamination of the floor prior to applying polish for example wax, chemical residue, other foreign contaminants etc.
Solution 1: Thoroughly remove polish using Timber Care Floor Stripper (following instructions on the label) Mop the floor with Timber Care Floor Cleaner ( following instructions on the label) Allow to dry thoroughly.
Before re-applying Timber Care Floor Polish test in an inconspicuous area to ensure all contaminants have been removed.
Re-apply Timber Care Floor Polish ( following instructions on the label)
Important note: If the contaminant or wax cannot be completely removed using Timber Care Floor Stripper and Cleaner the rejection problem can occur again. If this happens the floor is unsuitable for Timber Care Floor Polish to be applied.
Reason 2: The polish was applied too soon on a newly coated floor and the solvents and vapours coming from the newly coated floor are reacting with the polish.
Solution 2: Thoroughly remove polish using Timber Care Floor Stripper (following instructions on the label) Mop the floor with Timber Care Floor Cleaner ( following instructions on the label) Allow the newly sealed floor the appropriate time to cure before re-applying Timber Care Floor Polish.
|
| Back to Questions |
|
Q. The polish has dried with air bubbles?
Reason 1: The polish was over worked during application by either a) too vigorously mopping on the polish or b) by going over the same area too many times.
Solution 1: Remove polish using Timber Care Floor Stripper (following instructions on the label) and re-apply Timber Care Floor Polish (following instructions on the label) taking care to apply thin even coats in a figure 8 motion.
Reason 2: The polish was applied with a sponge mop or other form of applicator instead of a looped end cotton/rayon blend mop or lambswool applicator.
Solution 2: Remove polish using Timber Care Floor Stripper (following instructions on the label) and using the correct applicator re-apply Timber Care Floor Polish (following instructions on the label) taking care to apply thin even coats in a figure 8 motion.
|
| Back to Questions |
|
